Hungarian Hot Paprika Sauce

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Although paprika is more often used in stews than sauces, this sauce was 
designed as a condiment for fish. Traditionally, it is served over fried
fillets of river fish.

Ingredients

2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon finely ground black pepper
1 cup milk
1 teaspoon minced onion
2 to 3 teaspoons hot paprika
Hint of nutmeg

Instructions

Heat the butter in a saucepan. Add the flour, salt, and pepper and stir 
constantly until it starts to bubble. Gradually add the milk, stirring
constantly until the mixture is smooth. Bring the mixture to a boil and
continue to stir for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the onion, nutmeg, and paprika
to the mixture, stir well for 30 seconds, and serve.

Zhug (Yemenite Hot Sauce)

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Popular with the Yemenite Jews in Israel and in the Middle East, this 
hot sauce starts with a paste of garlic and peppers plus whatever spices
the individual cook chooses, along with cilantro and/or parsley. There
are two versions, this green one and a red one that uses red sweet and
hot peppers. Tomatoes are sometimes added to tone down the sauce, which
can be quite spicy. This quick and easy sauce serves as a table
condiment, as a sauce for grilled fish or meat or for eggs, or can be
added to soups and stews just before serving. It goes especially well
with lamb kabobs.

Ingredients

8 serrano chiles, stems removed (or substitute jalapeño chiles)
6 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
1 1/2 teaspoons caraway seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
1 tablespoon lemon juice, preferably fresh
1 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley
1/2 to 3/4 cup olive oil
Salt to taste

Instructions

Place the chiles, garlic, caraway, cumin, cardamom, pepper, cloves, and 
lemon juice in a blender or food processor and puree to a smooth paste,
adding some of the oil if necessary.
Add the cilantro and parsley, and while the machine is running slowly,
add the oil until a “soupy” sauce is formed. Season with salt.

Rougail (Réunionaise Salsa)

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Few people have ever heard of the Mascarenes, and these islands are more 
known by their individual names: Réunion, Mauritius, and Ródrigues. They
are a departement of France and lie hundred of miles east of Madagascar,
hundreds of miles away from each other, and although they vary greatly
in geography, culture, and religion, they have one great thing in
common: a love of chile peppers. On all three islands, chiles of every
size and heat level are lovingly grown and added to a cuisines that can
generically be called Creole. Rebecca Chastenet de Gry, one of my
writers, collected this recipe for me on Réunion Island. She wrote:
"Alter the heat in this extremely hot salsa by changing the chiles used.
Traditionally the smaller piquin or bird's eye chiles are the types
preferred, but milder ones, such as red serranos, can be used." Serve
it--easy does it--over clams, other shellfish, or grilled fish fillets.

Ingredients

1/2 cup small fresh hot red chiles, such as piquin, stems and seeds removed
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro
4 cloves garlic
2 tablespoons sliced ginger
1/4 cup vegetable oil
3 tablespoons white vinegar

Instructions

Place the chiles, salt, garlic, and cilantro in a blender and process 
slightly and still chunky.
Combine the remaining ingredients, and the chile and mix well. Allow the
salsa to sit for a couple of hours to blend the flavors.

Piment Limón (Citrus Hot Sauce)

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Here is my version of the classic hot sauce of Rórigues Island in the 
Mascarenes. It is very thick, so feel free to thin with more water if
you want. You’d think that this sauce might be sour, but it’s not–the
sugar in the red chiles seems to temper the tart lemons. Any fresh red
chiles can be used, and you can adjust the heat level to your liking.
The yield is high here, but the color is so beautiful that you should
put the excess in decorative bottles as gifts for your friends. It will
keep for several weeks in the refrigerator. Serve it over fish or other
seafood.

Ingredients

6 cups water
10 lemons, thickly sliced, seeds removed (or substitute limes for a
different color)
8 to 10 red jalapeños, seeds and stems removed, halved
1/4 cup vegetable oil

Instructions

Place the water in a large pot and bring to a boil. Add the lemon slices 
and boil for 20 minutes. Strain, reserving the water.
Place the jalapeños in a blender and add the oil. Puree to make a thick
paste. Add the lemon slices, a few at a time, along with 3 cups of the
reserved water, a half cup at a time. You may have to do this in batches
in you don’t have a large blender. Puree to a thick sauce. Pour into
bottles and label.

Ngapi Ye (Hot Burmese Anchovy Sauce)

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This highly aromatic Burmese sauce is commonly used to heat up Southeast
Asian curries. Shrimp or prawn paste may be substituted for the
fermented dried fish if you can’t find it at the Asian market. In a
pinch, use canned anchovy fillets.

Ingredients

2 cups fermented dried fish or anchovies
1/2 cup water
1/4 cup shrimp powder (available in Asian markets)
1 teaspoon cayenne
2 tablespoons lime juice
6 cloves garlic, minced

Instructions

In a saucepan, bring the fish and water to a boil, then reduce the heat,
simmer for five minutes, and mash the fish. Remove from the heat and
when the mixture cools, add the remaining ingredients and stir well.